Monday, 26 April 2010

Things I miss about the Belgrade - II

Carrying on with my listing of things I miss the most about Belgrade, here's the second item on my list: Burek! There isn't a street in Belgrade where you won't find a pekara (bakery) or a buregdžinica (a place for burek and pita) - they are everywhere, tempting you to step in and order some delicious (and often really unexpensive!) pastry delight.



I was told the word burek is used to reffer specifically to the meat filled pastry. Pastries with fillings other than meat are called pita, meaning something like "pie", but not quite. So if you want a cheese "pie", you should order a pita sa sirom, or sirnica. Maybe a potato one? That would be krompiruša. And so on, depending on the filling.

A pekara (bakery) in Belgrade

In Serbia burek is often round, pretty much like a pie. I read (or I was told, can't remember) that this shape of burek was created by a turkish baker in Niš (a city in Southern Serbia), some 5 centuries years ago (God, that's as old as my home country!). In Bosnia, though, burek and pita are rolled, creating either small "buns" or big rolled pies. I love both shapes, haha, can't pick one.





Now, I've been to Belgrade time enough to know some good places for a burek and I have to say that the best one I've ever been to is this buregdžinica called Sarajevo, at Svetogorska street, 38. It's open 24 hours a day (!!!) and it's totally worth a visit. And if you can't say a word in serbian and feel embarassed to step in and order in english, fear no more! They do speak english there, as in many other places around the city.

Come to that, here's a fact: people often tend to think that most people in Belgrade won't speak any english. If you too think so, you'd be surprised: no matter how good or bad one's english is in Belgrade, they will always try and help you out as much as they can. And they will be delighted if you try some serbian words. So, no reasons to be embarassed ;)


Ps.: I'm eternally grateful to Valja for having "introduced" me to Sarajevo :D

Tuesday, 20 April 2010

Entrevista na Folha Ilustrada!

Música dos Bálcãs inspira orquestra pop no Rio

AUDREY FURLANETO
da sucursal do Rio

São 18h de uma sexta-feira e um saxofonista cumprimenta uma flautista na praça São Salvador, em Laranjeiras, zona sul do Rio. Em seguida, mais três rapazes chegam e tiram das bolsas acordeão, violino e trompete. Uma moça loira surge com copos e uma garrafa de Shlivovitsa, destilado típico do Leste Europeu. E a orquestra começa a tocar no coreto.
É o primeiro ensaio aberto da Go East Orkestar, a orquestra de música dos Bálcãs organizada pela DJ (a moça loura) Maria Teresa, ou Tetê, líder da "balada balcânica" Go East!, que chega à 15ª edição hoje, no Cine Lapa, no Rio.
Formada por músicos jovens como o saxofonista Daniel Vasques, do Brasov, a orquestra faz ensaios periódicos na praça (a programação é sempre atualizada no blog).

Rafael Andrade/Folha Imagem 
Membros da orquestra Go East! fazem ensaio em Laranjeiras, zona sul do Rio

Há, como inspiração, o som do cineasta sérvio Emir Kusturica. Autor das próprias trilhas, ele mostra a música de sua No Smoking Band em filmes como "Underground", que lhe rendeu a segunda Palma de Ouro no Festival de Cannes em 1995.
"O som é algo entre a comédia e o tom dramático ao mesmo tempo, com muitos metais. É intenso, energético", define Tetê, que organiza a orquestra com sua parceira na Go East, a argentina Maria Sol Provvidente. Elas, aliás, vão tocar em julho no Exit, festival à beira do rio Danúbio, no norte da Sérvia, por onde já passaram Primal Screen e Gogol Bordello.
A Go East Orkestar vai suprir a falta de bandas na balada que as duas promovem no Rio desde 2007 e que chegou a São Paulo em 2009. Com público médio de 500 pessoas, a festa das DJs já recebeu até bandas de ciganos. A ideia é que, agora, a orquestra própria se apresente nas próximas edições.
Falta ainda resolver um detalhe: como não conhecem muitas pessoas que falam sérvio, o grupo está sem vocalista. E, embora sejam fluentes no idioma, Tetê e sua amiga Chica Batella, filha do escritor João Ubaldo Ribeiro, devem fazer só coro e dançar "kolo", algo como o samba dos Bálcãs, que elas já apresentam na Go East.
Chica e Tetê (a DJ já morou duas vezes na Sérvia, em busca de música e de materiais para sua festa) voltarão ao país em julho e agosto com outros seis amigos. O interesse é música e cultura local.
"Em toda a esquina, há um grupo de ciganos tocando. Há centenas de barcos por todo o [rio] Danúbio com festas de música folclórica e de turbo folk [o som pop da Sérvia]. São tão musicais quanto nós brasileiros", diz a DJ.
No ensaio aberto ao público, não demora para que a praça fique lotada de curiosos que espiam e dançam ao som de bandas como a americana Beirut, que com "Elephant Gun" e outros hits, ajudaram a popularizar a música dos Bálcãs nos últimos anos.

http://www1.folha.uol.com.br/folha/ilustrada/ult90u721941.shtml

Saturday, 10 April 2010

Things I miss about the Belgrade - I

It's been a nostalgic week for me and I guess the weekend won't be any different. So I decided to start this series of photo-posts here on the blog, listing the 'things' I miss the most when it comes to Belgrade. I won't mention all the people I miss, cause then the list would be waaay to big - and besides, those I miss know who they are and how much I miss them :)

So, number 1 thing: the "music all around" factor: there's always someone playing something on some corner.

Thursday, 1 April 2010

Travelling without moving

Slightly new look here on the blog for a new trip do Serbia real soon - I can't barely wait!

Me plus 4 or 5 friends should be arriving in Serbia on the first days july and staying almost til the end of august - it's gonna be epical! 4 out of those 6 friends had never been to Serbia before, and 3 of them had never been to the Balkans. I'm counting the days! :)

While boarding time won't come, I keep carrying some projects here to bring me closer to the Balkans in some way. The latest of these projects - with my super partner in production and DJing, Sol - is GO EAST ORKESTAR: a reunion of great musicians from Rio de Janeiro interested in playing music from all over the Balkans. The band is gonna be resident at GO EAST, the balkan music party me and Sol produce together here in Brazil, for over two years now.

So far we had two rehearsals, and I can't barely wait for the 3rd!
I leave you here with 3 videos of GO EAST ORKESTAR's first 2 rehearsals:



Monday, 18 January 2010

Coming back!

Dear readers!


I can't wait to be able to post here on a daily basis again. I mean, I could write entries now and all, but if I'm not in Belrgade or in the Balkans, what's the sense in it? As this blog is entirely dedicated to my adventures in Southeastern Europe, the answer to the previous question I just made has to be "none". Unless I had any unwritten story to tell you guys, which is not the case. Anyways...

Hopefully I'll be back to Belgrade by May (fingers crossed everybody!), and this time I'll definitelly roam around the region a lot. Can't tell you more than this for now, but I'd suggest you people to watch this blog closely within the next couple of months, as I believe some exciting news will follow shortly ;)

For now, I'll leave you with a track by one of my favourite DJs/producers/musicians, Mr Kiril Džajkovski, from Macedonia. The guy is a genius, and his new track (featuring the wonderful Esma Redžepova!) is totally great!



Tuesday, 26 May 2009

What's the time? Kolo time! II

I guess by now everyone who reads this blog is already aware of my huuuge passion for kolo and folk dances, in general. Made a post a while ago on the basics of kolo, and a couple of videos to illustrate the post and all (you can scroll this page down for the previous post on kolo or click here)

Anyways, as people here seemed interested in kolo, here's a some videos for you guys (bear in mind we made these videos for fun only :)

This is from a couple of years ago... I had just learned how to dance it and was trying to "teach" it to a friend :)


This one is waaaay more recent: me and Chica having some fun with Čačak :D


And at last but not least, this is me and Chica again, memorising a Vlaške igre routine for a presentation:


Hehe, enjoy! :D

Wednesday, 20 May 2009

A quick hello...

Big plans, news pretty soon.

My return to moj dragi Beorgad had to be postponed a few months, but's gonna happen, of course. Tours, car trips, parties and so on... Lots to come!


In the meantime, I keep drinking my špricer, having my burek (brought from a bulgarian shop in São Paulo, since we don't have it in Rio) and, of course, partying big time - Balkan style, of course!

Ladies and Gents: the party I produce in Rio on Brazilian television, with english subtitles!

Tuesday, 17 February 2009

What's the time? Kolo time! I

Anyone who have been to Serbia and surroundings have for sure heard about "kolo". Kolo is for Serbia as samba is for Brazil: kolo is the quintessencial serbian dance, is the thing that each serbian citizen is supposed to know how to dance from the day he/she was born - even though (like samba in Brazil) this is not always necessarily true (I am brazilian and I have no clue on how to dance samba).

Kola (serbian plural for kolo) can be very slow and easy, or fast and freaky, depending from the rigion they come from, as kolo can be found all over Serbia and neighbouring countries. The music is usually played by accordions, frula (a serbian flute), violins, percussion and, several times, by brass instruments like trumpets (those played by as many different instruments as possible are the coolest although, in my opinion, accodions are a must when it comes to kolo).

Kolo dance is usually danced in circles - hence the name (kolo means "wheel", "circle" in serbian) - or lines, by two people to several dozens, holding each other's hands while doing the basic steps (always starting to the right):



two steps to the right
one to the left
another one to the right

two steps to the left
one to the right
another one to the left

Discribing it like this might makes kolo sounds rather boring, but it isn't: once you get used to the rithym and the basic steps, kolo becomes rather addictive. I always catch myself moving my feet when I'm sitting on a bus, or waiting on a queue :)



Although the basic steps are rather simple, due to it's many variations from town to town kolo can be added of many ornamental elements and some crazy syncopated steps. Some of the most famous kolo types are Užičko (from the Užice region), Moravac and Čačak (these two from regions with the same name) among many, many others. click on the word links to see videos
In Serbia, kolo is all around: musicians on the streets always play it, people dance to it on kafanas (Serbian bars), clubs, parties and so on. It's kinda magical, cause it's a dance that makes people that never met before get together and dance, hand in hand. I'll never forget when me and my brazilian friends danced kolo for the first time on a kafana or when me and my belgian friend, Valerie, stopped in front of a roma brass band on Knez Mihailova (Belgrade's most famous street) and danced together with some gypsy kids that were around, attracting a crowd of several dozen people that stopped to watch us - an unforgettable moment :)
Kolo is the dance that best expresses the "spirit" of Serbia and it's warm, welcoming and well humoured people. That's probably why I love kolo as much as I do.

My plane arriving in Belgrade

The best feeling ever: landing in Belgrade :)

Monday, 2 February 2009

Moj dragi Beograd

And as an opening to my "posting-return", a song :)



Мој драги Београде

Била сам у Прагу и Лондону
Прошла кроз Атину, Вечни рим
Видела сам Напуљ и Верону
Јарким сунцем обасјани Крим

Гледала сам раскош и богатство
Многе чари сретала сам тад
Али нигде, нигде не пронађох
То што има мој вољени град

Мој Београд срце има
И у срцу љубав чисту
Београд руке шири свима
Сваком радост пружа исту

Ја се дивим чарима Париза
Праг ће увек бити златни град
Поштујем их али љубав моју
Има само мој вољени град
Мој драги Београд


Lyrics translation soon!